American here in Oundle (Peterborough) - Brand new to woodworking

[Inspector]

Hmmmmm.. Maybe you are right. I do have quite a bit of 18mm birch plywood, and it would make things a bit easier, as I would need to worry about wood movement with the mahogany, which I don't think is as much a condern with the birch plywood. Plus, it would not require stripping.

There you go. Nice to put the kidneys to work eh.

Pete

 

[shortbusruss]

Making some progress on storage. All rails in the drawer box, and a second drawer built and installed.

 

[Cabinetman]

Looking good Russ, just seen a young woman on fb that’s full of good ideas on workshop storage, Wilker Do’s , might be useful.
Ian

 

[Accipiter]

Certainly is looking good

 

[shortbusruss]

Also picked up a nice bandsaw for 150£ today. Wife is moderately annoyed as this tightens up the garage space for now.. But our referencing went through for the new rental, and the owners are great and have agreed to clear out the garage first, and allow me to move the woodshop before the official start date.. So she'll get over it..

 

[Mike]

Also picked up a nice bandsaw for 150£ today.

Congratulations on the purchase! The cast iron table will clean up nicely with some elbow grease and a random orbital sander. When you get settled in, contact Ian at Tuff Saws for good blades.

I have the Record Power BS350S that had the same mobility kit. After the first year of moving the saw around, the wheels started failing and I wanted to improve the base while adding some storage in the wasted space. Here is the thread on UKW showing my base, which should be ideal for your saw as well:

Record Power BS350S Bandsaw Modifications - Part 5: Base Replacement

I made several modifications to my Record Power BS350S bandsaw and documented them here in case anyone with a similar bandsaw was interested. Here are the modifications I made so far. I’ll update the list below with links to the other threads as I add them:: 1. Upgrade upper and lower blade...

www.ukworkshop.co.uk

After nearly five years of use, I am very happy with the modifications I made to my saw and the base is perfect for my limited space basement shop.

 

[shortbusruss]

Congratulations on the purchase! The cast iron table will clean up nicely with some elbow grease and a random orbital sander. When you get settled in, contact Ian at Tuff Saws for good blades.

I have the Record Power BS350S that had the same mobility kit. After the first year of moving the saw around, the wheels started failing and I wanted to improve the base while adding some storage in the wasted space. Here is the thread on UKW showing my base, which should be ideal for your saw as well:

Record Power BS350S Bandsaw Modifications - Part 5: Base Replacement

I made several modifications to my Record Power BS350S bandsaw and documented them here in case anyone with a similar bandsaw was interested. Here are the modifications I made so far. I’ll update the list below with links to the other threads as I add them:: 1. Upgrade upper and lower blade...

www.ukworkshop.co.uk

After nearly five years of use, I am very happy with the modifications I made to my saw and the base is perfect for my limited space basement shop.

I may try some of your upgrades. For now.. The bandsaw came without the upper tensioning knob, so I need to either order a replacement from Record, or finally set up my 3D printer and print one. I haven't taken the time yet to make sure the cast iron worktop is square to the blade, haven't dialed in the side guides or rear stop, etc. It will be some time before the bandsaw is usable. I did watch the video of how to do all this and it seems very straightforward, but storage is the priority right now.

Last night, I cut and sanded the sides for the other 4 drawers, so they should be ready for drillng pocket holes, and assembly, once I go out to the greenhouse to pick up a few more 1/4" plywood bottoms and cut them. I have a line on a set of 10 muted gold drawer handles for the false fronts. I think I may just go ahead with the plan to use the birch plywood stained black for false fronts, and trim out the rest of the front of the 2x4 frame with unstained birch plywood. Or maybe just keep everything the same and use clear poly?

Hoping to have all six bare drawers in this evening. I figured out a solution where I clamp an appropriately sized height of 18mm plywood with a tacked on 1/4" plywood "runner", sitting on top on the next lower rail clamped to each side of the cabinet carcass, to support each drawer at the right height. Felt squirrelly the first time I tried it because the drawers went in so tight. Drawer slid smoothly as soon as I removed the supports.

 

[shortbusruss]

Didn't feel like getting dirty tonight, so decided to just assemble the 4 drawer sides, and will try to cut thebottoms and attach them tomorrow.

 

[shortbusruss]

Got around to cutting the bottoms for the drawers this evening.. A few months ago, I bought a bunch of 1/4" squares from delivery packaging, and this is what I used for the bottoms. By some miracle, when I cut the bottoms of the first two large drawers.. The offcuts perfectly matched the two smaller drawers, making finishing up a bit quicker. I feel that maybe the drawers are not quite installed right enough to allow for flush false fronts.But I think I might just take a break from this project and get on to building a combo table saw/router workbench.

 

[shortbusruss]

So, new things afoot! I am awake early AM thinking through what the new few months hold in store..

I am moving house from Oundle to Denford, likely starting 1 Dec. The new place is about 20 minutes down the road, and this means we can move pretty much all the small stuff ourselves, and hire a moving company for a "heavy items only" move. The new place has a good 600 sq ft more space, and laid out so that pretty much everything can be placed immediately in it's "forever home" as soon as it is unloaded. Meaning I can rent a panel van, pull loaded drawers out of cabinets, and then slap them right back in when cabinets arrive. Load kitchen stuffs in open boxes put them straight in cabinets, reuse boxes for next load.

New house owners have agreed to clearout garage first,so I can move woodshop before we get the keys, clearing out old garage for staging items to load in self move van. We'll hire a moving company to move washer/dryer, dining room table, billiard slates, etc.

I am very excited for this move. There is definitely a little cost involved, but it's the little things. Just me and my wife and a cat in a huge house, but things like being able to set up the conservatory with our 3 cardio machines + Olympic weight setup, means we free up the garage AND a small bedroom for other uses. Like dedicating a single bedroom to storage, with the rest of the house being completely uncluttered.

I am thinking now about whether I want to build a rolling cart for moving individual billiard slates for our pool table. It will have to wait until early to mid January to be reassembled by a table tech. Need to get through the move to do a full inventory, as the table techs in Germany took it down to the bolts (not my choice).

I have some time to dedicate to finishing a few projects before we have to start the move. Planning on kocking out a wood storage cart today to consolidate all the plywood I have cluttering up the garage now, that will provide an easy way to move all those to the new property. Also, need to get the combo table saw/router bench built. Those two projects will actually clear out a lot of space in the garage currently taken up by plywood sitting on top of workstands for cutting.

 

[shortbusruss]

Building a small rolling wood storage cart... Won't be likely to put full sheets on it, so going with two A frames for the 4 foot span. Still a little bit more to do, as the A frames are not attached to the base yet..