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Any CNC Router Owners ON Here?

meccarroll

Nordic Pine
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Hi all just wondered who on here might own a CNC Router?

I have had one for a couple of years and also have a CNC in bits that I need to build sometime.

Just wondered what bits you are using, what motor you use with the bits, frame and software etc.

Don't know if anyone is interested in striking up a general conversation about CNC routers :eusa-think:

Mark
 
Malc2098":3ksiuv46 said:
Oui. Moi.

Hi Malc, I know you have a CNC Workbee I think and maybe the Queen Bee?

Not sure if you are running a router or spindle?

I have the 2.2KW Spindle (Water Cooled) which makes it very quiet to use as there are no fans whizzing around to make a noise.

I have only used max 6mm wide endmills so far but am now going to experiment with machining 18mm MDF to see how I get on cutting full depth.

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I'v got a 100x75 Bulkman Queenbee Pro. It's controlled by an xPro V5. The spindle and VFD are 1.5kw air cooled.

I use CNC3D Commander software, free and very good. I use Vectric VCarve Desktop CAD/CAM.

I use mainly 6mm end mill cutters and go right down to 0.6mm EM cutters for mother of pearl and small pockets for writing in wood.

The only larger diameter cutters I use are a 22mm for spoilboard levelling and a 12mm ball nose for dished work.

I have cut MDF, Plywood, various types of wood, acrylic, MDPE, brass and Mother of Pearl.

CNC3D advise that our types of machine are not sufficiently stiff enough for wider than 6mm EM cutters.

I would advise against milling full depth mdf with a 6mm cutter. Usually for wood, I would use a pass of half, or less, the diameter of the cutter. You might get away with 6mm per pass in mdf, providing you ramp the cutter's entry.

For MoP which is hard, I use 0.1mm passes with the 0.6mm EM, and have only broken one cutter in 4 MoP job, i.e. 120 passes in MoP over time, not all in one go.
 
Malc2098":2yxs99ct said:
I'v got a 100x75 Bulkman Queenbee Pro. It's controlled by an xPro V5. The spindle and VFD are 1.5kw air cooled.

I use CNC3D Commander software, free and very good.

Just took a quick look and it looks ok for running the machine.

I use Vectric VCarve Desktop CAD/CAM.

It seems most people use Vetric to create the toolpaths for cutting.

I use mainly 6mm end mill cutters and go right down to 0.6mm EM cutters for mother of pearl and small pockets for writing in wood.

The only larger diameter cutters I use are a 22mm for spoilboard levelling and a 12mm ball nose for dished work.

I have cut MDF, Plywood, various types of wood, acrylic, MDPE, brass and Mother of Pearl.

CNC3D advise that our types of machine are not sufficiently stiff enough for wider than 6mm EM cutters.

Yes my machine has steel box section for the frame and even that moves when machining so I can see the aluminium desctops would be limited. Something I am now starting to realise is the desctop and smaller CNC machines like mine are more limited to how fast and how deep a cut can be made.

I would advise against milling full depth mdf with a 6mm cutter.
Yes I don't think my 2.2KW spindle is quite up to it but I want to see what the real limits are. I know the frame is box steel but it has it's limitations.


Usually for wood, I would use a pass of half, or less, the diameter of the cutter. You might get away with 6mm per pass in mdf, providing you ramp the cutter's entry.

Yes I have started to learn about using the settings to assist with lead in to help cutter life. Such a huge learning curve!
 
Made these two signs a couple of days ago just experimenting with V Carving (Bottom carving done with a V. bit) Top (Pocket toolpath with 1/4" down cut endmill).

I have ordered some different endmill bits from China to experiment with and will update with pics when they arrive and I have had a chance to use them.

Barn Sign.png

The cupboards above are from my kitchen and were made using a normal router bit and inscribing the MDF (20 years ago). I am working on simulating the design for using with my CNC. And got as far as the toolpath stage in V.Carve.
 

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Well done. I did the same with a non standard size pair of kitchen doors to match the others some years ago. Had to practise on scrap mdf to make sure I had it right.

Nice signs.
 
Malc2098":1yrpz05e said:
Well done. I did the same with a non standard size pair of kitchen doors to match the others some years ago. Had to practise on scrap mdf to make sure I had it right.

Nice signs.

Thank's Malc, it's a learning curve for sure!

I hope there are others on here with CNC machines :eusa-pray: Would be nice to share experiences :eusa-dance:
 
StevieB":1m6chnn4 said:
I hope there are others on here with CNC machines :eusa-pray: Would be nice to share experiences :eusa-dance:

Noooo, don't tempt me down another expensive path involving computers and wood!


Go on. You know you want to! ;)
 
StevieB":3303ntd6 said:
I hope there are others on here with CNC machines :eusa-pray: Would be nice to share experiences :eusa-dance:

Noooo, don't tempt me down another expensive path involving computers and wood!

What else do you want to do?

I have to admit Steve it's one of those areas of woodwork that is new! It's like walking into a different world of woodwork where threre are endless possibilities for being creative.

It can be a bit of an expense to set up initially but if you buy a machine like Malc you will be set up for life!

It's worth looking into buying one even if you later decide not to take it any further. Interested :eusa-think:
 
My advice, FWIW, to any member considering buying a cnc machine for hobby or even small commercial work, is to not go too big.

The hobby machines available don't achieve the stiffness and rigidity that commercial machines do, and so can't use cutters really any bigger diameter than 6mm for lateral milling.

I would suggest go as small as you need. The CAD/CAM software I use allows me to mill one half of a piece longer than my machine, turn it round and mill the other half. I've only ever needed to do that once in three years. The footprint is bigger than the maximum size of workpiece they can mill.

They are not plug-and-play. They need configuring. That can be frustrating getting to the point where they work for you. I've got mine set up now so that the laptop communicates with the controller via Bluetooth. I also have a pendant (a control box that can move the spindle x, y and z axes manually) which is wifi'd to the laptop. So I have no wires connecting anything that could become trip hazards.

Arrange chip extraction. They make lots. I stand and hold the hose close to the workpiece. You may have room to build in permanent extraction. Never leave a machine running without you in the workshop.

But once it's up and running, workpieces become repeatable and accurate, which was what I was after.
 
I still have my laser to play with. I did toy with a CNC instead when deciding which to go for, but as it was purely a hobby decision rather than a punt at a side hustle/business the laser was more attractive as an option for me. Both would obviously be ideal, but as I do not really have time to properly use all the toys I currently have, I need to resist temptation to save and purchase more!
 
Ps. I might be wrong, but I would also suggest that anything less than a 1.5kw spindle, they range up to about 800w before the jump to 1.5kw, should be considered an engraver and not a milling machine.
 
some great comments there and agree about the later ref. power, however the small ones do introduce you to a lot of the principles and learning curve... I have one of the cheap ones from China which is sitting waiting for me to have more time to play with - far steeper learning curve than my laser, but will tackle it at some point - it doesn't make sense to me to invest in a bigger one until I have climbed at least some of that learning curve
 
akirk":1pxtm4ao said:
some great comments there and agree about the later ref. power, however the small ones do introduce you to a lot of the principles and learning curve... I have one of the cheap ones from China which is sitting waiting for me to have more time to play with - far steeper learning curve than my laser, but will tackle it at some point - it doesn't make sense to me to invest in a bigger one until I have climbed at least some of that learning curve

GRBL Software is mainly aimed at DIY, Hobby, light Trade use but still looks more than capable of producing the necessary results.

The machines all use the software in the same way, a bigger machine does not mean you need different software to move the spindle around. The main limitation in CNC work is the machine. So with the principles of machining being fundamentally the same learning on a smaller machine is an excellent way to start.
 
I have a 1000 x 1500 BlackBee (don't ask about the make, the guy was a bit of a con artist but it works quite well after a lot of fettling). I run a 2.2kW water cooled spindle as well. It runs off a Duet 3 6HC connected to a Raspberry Pi and a touchscreen.

Mark
 
mdhazell":1k6w4lti said:
I have a 1000 x 1500 BlackBee (don't ask about the make, the guy was a bit of a con artist but it works quite well after a lot of fettling). I run a 2.2kW water cooled spindle as well. It runs off a Duet 3 6HC connected to a Raspberry Pi and a touchscreen.

Mark

I don't suppose you would share a picture of your CNC woulsd you.

BlackBee? sounds like a workBee but with a few modifications. I did hear about Duet controllers (if thats what they are) and something also about Raspberry Pi but that was about three years ago and I think things have moved on.

I'm guessing it's an aluminuim frame with poly wheels and either a belt or lead screw design.

I think if aluminium frame then the steppers won't be too huge because I'd suspect the frame might not take the strain.

What sort of things do you make?
 
I like that cribbage board Mark. I’ve made a few more conventional straight up and down two track boards from a metal template by grandfather made.
 
mdhazell":32ahy42l said:
Here's a picture of my BlackBee, quite a beefed up X gantry.

That look a nice machine, looks like should machine quite well. I have mainly just experimented with my CNC but now getting to the stage where I think it could prove to be very useful.

Your Blackbee looks similar to a workbee Pro.
 
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