Bedec Barn Paint, thank you Mike G

[AndyP]

Thank you Mike for extolling the virtues of this stuff.
I’ve tried most of the available finishes available over here and have never come across anything like Barn Paint. After a very frustrating weekend earlier in the summer painting some window frames and not being able to achieve a consistant colour over bare wood and sound painted wood even after 3 or 4 coats I bit the bullet and ordered 5 litres of Bedec from Brewers.

This is after just one brush stroke on the south facing external shutters.



Expensive it may be, value for money, so far undoubtedly.

 

[Mike G]

It's a pleasure. Hope it works well for you, Andy.

 

[Robert]

I've been using Bedec MSP for internal and external woodwork for some years now thanks to Mikes recommendation in the past. Only negative is that it is a bit soft for the first few weeks - no pot plants on interior sills until it is fully cured. After that it is tough and the whites are still as white as when it went on.

 

[AndyP]

Managed to get two coats on in just over 4 hours. These are south facing shutters so they get a lot of sun. I am interested to see how long they last before any UV degradation sets in.

 

[9fingers]

Is this stuff oil or water based? Been reading elsewhere that water based is mainly immune to yellowing.
Certainly leyland water based white gloss does not yellow. A tenant recently moved out and left a few wear and tear dings in the gloss work that I had used leyland on about 2-3 years ago. Very pleased that I only needed to do spot touch ups and not a full repaint. Meant a couple of hours rather than a couple of days work.

One further question is bedec msp suitable for high surface temperatures such as radiators?

Bob

 

[Mike G]

It's water based. The advantages of that include no colour degradation. The disadvantage is that there is a miniumum temperature for application, meaning it isn't really suitable for use outdoors in our winter.

 

[9fingers]

It's water based. The advantages of that include no colour degradation. The disadvantage is that there is a miniumum temperature for application, meaning it isn't really suitable for use outdoors in our winter.

And yet they call is Barn Paint? or is that different stuff? maybe rename to summer barn paint :lol:

How about using MSP on radiators?

Bob

 

[Mike G]

No, I meant application, Bob. It's got to be warm enough during the period before it dries. Once it dries it's fine for anything the weather can throw at it.

No idea about MSP for radiators. Sorry.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I've been using Bedec MSP for internal and external woodwork for some years now thanks to Mikes recommendation in the past. Only negative is that it is a bit soft for the first few weeks - no pot plants on interior sills until it is fully cured. After that it is tough and the whites are still as white as when it went on.

I have tried quite a few attempts at a modern gloss white paint. The Bedec MSP has to me two problems: First, it is not suitable for surfaces subject to much handling - it says so on the tin, and it is correct. Like all water based gloss I've tried, it goes into a sticky mess if handled a lot. Second, it flows quite poorly - just about ok on small sections like skirtings and window frames, but when applied by brush on large surfaces like doors you can't keep a wet edge and the finish IS only fit for a barn !

But at least it doesn't stink. I bought some oil based gloss white from Jewsons, I swear it smell worse than ever. I took the door off and painted it outside, even after drying for a couple of days is stank the house out for a couple of weeks after re-hanging the door. It is also too thick and gloopy - probably in a misguided attempt to make it "one coat", so gives a not great finish. May also be part of why it took so long to stop smelling.

 

[Mike G]

MSP and Barn Paint are two different products, Tony.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

Yes, in fairness I've only tried the MSP. But I'd love to find a non-smelly gloss finish that flows well enough to look OK on a large surface like a door, or that can withstand handling.

 

[Mike G]

That's not really its purpose, Tony. Bedec make a water based gloss, for stuff like doors and skirtings. It's fine, but there are lots of other water-based gloss competitors out there. I don't think Bedec has any great advantage in that field. I suspect you may have based your judgement on MSP on its performance in a job it isn't designed for.

 

[AJB Temple]

As Andy & Mike are aware, my wife and I together repainted an entire barn that was dead rough and black unknown paint, with Bedec barn paint based on Mike's product recommendation. I was buying a lot, so they kindly supplied me with half a dozen double test pots. The challenge was we wanted to go from black to a much lighter colour. We chose their highest pigment light blue, largely because it achieved full colour transformation in two coats (three in a few places on the south side). I had to do a lot of cladding repairs first.

It has transformed the building. Labour was a significant factor as with the boarded building it proved most economical (with paint) to hand brush it. Around 300 square metres per coat, so doing another coat would have been a big job had we gone for cream (3 coats) or white (possibly 4 coats).

 

[AndyP]

I was never going to be so brave as Adrian and go from dark to light. I went for the darkest brown on their chart, chestnut. I’ve done two pairs of full height door sized shutters today and have one pair of window shutters to do tomorrow. I can't imagine that this unseasonably warm weather will continue long enough for me to redo the window frames. They can wait until spring.

 

[Windows]

For water-based gloss, I just did an exterior door in Little Greene intelligent gloss. It applies very nicely with a brush. Perfect consistency for me. Quick drying and no stink. Don’t know how it’ll hold up over time. It’s definitely shiny enough to count as gloss, but it’s not as hard-shiny looking as the oil gloss I put on the front door. Did touch ups on that 3 weeks ago and can still smell the oil gloss though. I can’t vouch for longevity, but I really like using all the variations of Little Greene paints that I’ve used.

 

[Robert]

The Bedec MSP has to me two problems: First, it is not suitable for surfaces subject to much handling - it says so on the tin, and it is correct. Like all water based gloss I've tried, it goes into a sticky mess if handled a lot. Second, it flows quite poorly - just about ok on small sections like skirtings and window frames, but when applied by brush on large surfaces like doors you can't keep a wet edge and the finish IS only fit for a barn !

I painted all our internal doors with Bedec MSP and got a near perfect finish on them.... but I did take the doors off and take them into the workshop and spray them . Thinned with a bit of water it sprays just fine.
Don't know if it is supposed to be sprayable but it worked for me. I hate hand painting doors.

 

[John Brown]

Old thread, but I think it might be the best place for this question...
Our house has oak window frames throughout, but some of them are pretty badly weathered on the outside. I was toying with the idea of using a bit of filler, and then painting the outer surfaces with Bedec barn paint, while continuing to just use Danish oil on the insides.
Am I crazy? Would it work? Would it look ridiculous?
Any advice received, maybe gratefully, it depends.

 

[AndyP]

Are you worried about the outside being a darker colour than the inside?

3 hours years on, BTW, and I’ve still not painted the frames

 

[Malc2098]

You might like to consider this product. Bedec MSP

I used their Barn Paint for painting the cladding of my workshop and little shed, and the Multi Surface Paint for other stuff on the outside of the workshop.

 

[John Brown]

I don't want any sort of gloss or sheen

Are you worried about the outside being a darker colour than the inside?

3 hours years on, BTW, and I’ve still not painted the frames

The outside is already a different colour - grey weathered oak colour, and the inside is brown Danish oiled oak colour.

 

[marineboy]

And yet they call is Barn Paint? or is that different stuff? maybe rename to summer barn paint :lol:

How about using MSP on radiators?

Bob

I’ve used MSP on radiators. No problem in withstanding the heat and no cracking or flaking. Thoroughly recommended.

 

[AJB Temple]

Based on Mike's recommendation we painted our entire house with Bedec barn paint. It has weathered well - though less so on the North aspect. Personally I would not paint oak if I were able to restore it with scraping and sanding, apply wood preserver and then oil it.

MSP applies quite thin and I would not use that on oak either. It is OK on coated aluminium window frames.

 

[John Brown]

I wouldn't paint it by choice, but it's been eaten away by woodlice (?) in a couple of areas. Not sure if the pictures show this...

 

[Cabinetman]

Could be wasps as well. They use the cellulose to make those incredibly beautiful nests.

 

[Windows]

I don’t think woodlice eat dry wood. If your wood is dry and well off the ground and something’s been having a nibble, I’d guess wasps.

If the wood isn’t always dry and you see woodlice, it’s not a woodlouse problem, it’s a water problem.

 

[John Brown]

It's often wet when it rains. That's the outside cill that's eaten away. And I've seen the woodlice.

 

[Trevanion]

I wouldn't paint it by choice, but it's been eaten away by woodlice (?) in a couple of areas. Not sure if the pictures show this...

Looking at it, the cill that's directly under the window when it's closed looks flat? That means when rain drives between the casement and the frame it will just sit in there, which is why you have a damp issue, and the timber begins to rot, which the woodlice love.

Paint would certainly help the issue, but you'll still have that sitting water problem in the future, even if you paint it.

 

[Windows]

It’s the area on the horizontal surface covered by the window when it’s closed? It’s certainly better for it not to be flat as Trevanion says. Also have a look under the window for a groove near the outside edge. This groove would be to prevent capillary action so water doesn’t move under the window. If you have a weather bar on the window that should also have a drip groove under it.