Bracing for timber Shed...

[Dan0741]

Evening all,

Im building a timber framed shed - approx 9'x5' - constuction is mainly 2x2 but with several 4x2 studs in each wall panel - im making it from largely leftovers. It will be approx 6' tall at the roof plate with a pitched 40 degree roof construction on top made from 4x2 rafters with a 6x2 ridge. All rafters will be tied just above plate level.

I plan to use reclaimed plain clay rooftiles which will add up to a substancial weight overall.

Question - Will galvanised steel strapping - similar to this the stuff below, be robust enough to use as a diagonal bracing material if I use it on each aspect screwed to each stud and in both directions?

Reason - to let a diagonal brace into the face of each stud will reduce the load bearing capacity given some are 2x2 and I dont want sheet material over either interior or exterior.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-bui ... UQod9nsFCg

Any thoughts much appreciated,

Dan

 

[9fingers]

Gut feel says it should work
Clearly only works in tension so criss cross bracing as you say
I think you need to devise a method of tensioning the straps as you fit them without pulling the frame out of square. Possibly clamp on a wooden diagonal during construction.

Interesting question!

Bob

 

[Mike G]

Yes, that will be fine, with some caveats. If fixed along both diagonals on each face one of them will be in tension whichever way the wind blows, and this stuff works perfectly well in tension (and obviously doesn't work in compression).

Now the caveats. First, it must be fixed absolutely flat and taut. You must find a way of stretching it out as you fix it. It should "ping" if you twang an edge. Secondly, your fixings must fully fill the holes. Use the smaller holes and a screw of the same diameter, for instance.

Your other option is a diagonal 100x25 flat across the inside face. 75x25 at a pinch.

 

[Dan0741]

Thank you Gents, I thought similarly - will mcgyver something to tension and then fix securely.

 

[Dan0741]

So the tensioning went well, I bolted the stapping to the tail of a sash cramp and pulled till a twang could clearly be heard - think this is a good solution that could be used more widely.

Next problem - Mortar fillet between brick plinth and timber frame...

I have discovered that my plinth is not particularly accurate - not sure how I missed this but one long side of the shed is about 13mm higher than the other... this means that when establishing a level timber frame on top, the gap to be filled with mortar is 13mm deeper one side than the other...

I have filled this once with mortar and clearly did something wrong with my mix as the mortar was soft white and crumbly like chalk after a week - not sure if it was the heat, too much water or proportions wrong, i thought i had an accurate 5:1 mix but seems not - anyhow this has been raked out and last night i re-mortared and the mix seemed better. However - it has slumped somewhat on the thickerside and im now left with 1-3 mm gap between the mortar bed and the bottom of the timber frame. This is exacerbated by my frame being 2x2 and therfore a the mortar bed is only 2" wide.

Currently all is still supported by my wedges on each aspect so no weight is yet bearing on the mortar.

My concern is that i have neither achieved a fully supportive bed, nor is this bed level as the 'slump' varies arround the base. When wedges are removed it will bear on the highspots and depending on the success of the mortar mix may crush to a powder - plain tiles are going on the roof so some weight.

Given i have tried the mortar fillet twice without sucess im reluctant to try again - is a couple of 2x2's thicknessed to the correct height (13 mm difference) the answer? I could bed on a foam roll I have seen in builders yards to try to provide a more even spread?

Am i worrying uncessarily or is this critical element going to catch up with me if i just staple the DPC up over it and board away.

All suggestions gratefully recieved...

Dan