Cutting window beading

[timothyedoran]

I am rebuilding the small front porch, which has single glazed glass. To match up with next door I am intending on using wooden window beading.
My question is bearing in mind I don't have any fancy machines, should I cut the beading at 45 degrees or should I do like when fitting skirting and do a cope cut thingy.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Cheers

Tim

 

[9fingers]

I've only ever seen it mitred but maybe, just maybe, there could be an advantage from the point of view of reduced length of exposed end grain to do a cut and cope.

Bob

 

[Mike Jordan]

I can't see any advantage in it. I always put beading on the inside if possible with a weather slope on the outside. If it's necessary to match existing why not cut it and trim to tight size with a plane and shooting board before priming the mitres at the time of fitting. External beading is best bedded in sealant but it's a messy business.

 

[timothyedoran]

Thanks both.

I think I will go for 45 mitre. I had intended on painting primer and one coat before fitting as trying to paint over silicone sealant is not fun.

 

[RogerM]

Thanks both.

I think I will go for 45 mitre. I had intended on painting primer and one coat before fitting as trying to paint over silicone sealant is not fun.

I did read somewhere that if the beading is on the outside, the top corners should be mitred. The bottom bead should go the full width of the recess and the side beads should be mitred at the top and coped in at the bottom so as to shed any water without it gathering on the end grain. Seems to make sense?

 

[9fingers]

Thanks both.

I think I will go for 45 mitre. I had intended on painting primer and one coat before fitting as trying to paint over silicone sealant is not fun.

I did read somewhere that if the beading is on the outside, the top corners should be mitred. The bottom bead should go the full width of the recess and the side beads should be mitred at the top and coped in at the bottom so as to shed any water without it gathering on the end grain. Seems to make sense?

That was the sort of thinking behind my post Roger but I guess the benfits are marginal.
I fitted a load of magnet windows in the early 80s and they are starting to suffer a bit from delamination but the ends of the beads still seem fine.
Possibly going to succumb to uPVC in the next few years as I am losing interest in shinning up ladders as I become more ancient!

Bob

 

[timothyedoran]

Thanks all for the advice. I ended up doing 45 degree mitres. I made a mitre block using a YouTube video from Paul Sellers and then carefully cut all the beading to size. I was well chuffed that it all just worked until I realised I had the beading round the wrong way. Here is a picture of the nice tight mitres cut wrong. Had to re do it but luckily had spares.





Photo of the nearly complete porch. Thanks to your advice on workshop building I have been able to progress on to porches too.

 

[Malc2098]

Nice.