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Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!
Mike's ext'n & renovation (solar panels)
- Thread starter Mike G
- Start date
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Andyp":3ckezrbm said:Mike G":3ckezrbm said:Amongst other things, I spent half an hour today trapped on my roof after kicking the ladder away accidentally. Anyway.......
Really? Where are the photosCould have been scary I guess.
No photos. No evidence it happened. Nothing to see here folks. Move along, move along. Oh, and I got myself down safely, without a ladder, and without jumping.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I forgot to post this photo last time, showing the relief cuts to the back of the boards. These help prevent the board attempting to cup:
I insulated the frame with 25mm Celotex:
Then with the boards screwed in place from the other side of the frame, temporarily, I put the template in place and with a flush trim cutter I trimmed the 2 layers to their final shape:
Time to get on with the other side. This is all going to be half-laps. Once I had set out one of the long pieces and one of the cross pieces, it was just a question of lots of knife cuts, lots of plunge routing, and lots of cleaning up with a chisel:
Here is the more complex top piece (template first):
The shape is another one of those nasty tapers-to-zero bits, but the difference this time is that it is a glued joint in seasoned timber, so I have every chance of success. I wont trim the last bit until after the joint is made. This the the knife cut establishing the visible line of the joint:
My photos are getting worse. I have no idea why. On the short simple joints I would do the entire cut with a chisel, but for this long diagonal cut I ran the tenon saw along the knife line:
Then plunged the router repeatedly:
Then cleaned up with a chisel:
The piece is oversized, so the fluffy edges are irrelevant.
Finally, it was time to glue up the outer frame:
I insulated the frame with 25mm Celotex:
Then with the boards screwed in place from the other side of the frame, temporarily, I put the template in place and with a flush trim cutter I trimmed the 2 layers to their final shape:
Time to get on with the other side. This is all going to be half-laps. Once I had set out one of the long pieces and one of the cross pieces, it was just a question of lots of knife cuts, lots of plunge routing, and lots of cleaning up with a chisel:
Here is the more complex top piece (template first):
The shape is another one of those nasty tapers-to-zero bits, but the difference this time is that it is a glued joint in seasoned timber, so I have every chance of success. I wont trim the last bit until after the joint is made. This the the knife cut establishing the visible line of the joint:
My photos are getting worse. I have no idea why. On the short simple joints I would do the entire cut with a chisel, but for this long diagonal cut I ran the tenon saw along the knife line:
Then plunged the router repeatedly:
Then cleaned up with a chisel:
The piece is oversized, so the fluffy edges are irrelevant.Finally, it was time to glue up the outer frame:
Mike G
Petrified Pine
The frame had been glued up overnight. First job today was to clean up , and properly shape the top. Of major concern were the tapering-to-zero corners of the top curve. I cut away at these incredibly carefully, until I was within sanding distance for a small drum sander, and then finally the trimming router following the template:
All the half laps on the frame were already in place:
So now it was a question of filling in the gaps. The horizontals would be in a variety of lengths, using up scraps:
To avoid having too big a gap open up if the timber shrinks, I put a shoulder on each horizontal joint. This made for rather a tiresome chore of endless marking and cutting of tiny bits, but I hope it will be worthwhile:
Eventually it all went together:
My wife came out to check on progress, so I lined both sides up for her to see what we would be getting:
Having glued up the "portcullis", as it was immediately dubbed (I screwed it temporarily too, as I didn't want to wait), I moved on to chamfering. I made up some corner blocks, screwed temporarily in place under the frame, then ran around each frame with the router:
That took a while! I had to flip the door for each frame, unscrew each block, reposition, screw in place, flip back over, rout, then repeat 14 times......
Getting there:
All the half laps on the frame were already in place:
So now it was a question of filling in the gaps. The horizontals would be in a variety of lengths, using up scraps:
To avoid having too big a gap open up if the timber shrinks, I put a shoulder on each horizontal joint. This made for rather a tiresome chore of endless marking and cutting of tiny bits, but I hope it will be worthwhile:
Eventually it all went together:
My wife came out to check on progress, so I lined both sides up for her to see what we would be getting:
Having glued up the "portcullis", as it was immediately dubbed (I screwed it temporarily too, as I didn't want to wait), I moved on to chamfering. I made up some corner blocks, screwed temporarily in place under the frame, then ran around each frame with the router:
That took a while! I had to flip the door for each frame, unscrew each block, reposition, screw in place, flip back over, rout, then repeat 14 times......
Getting there:
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2014
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Cunning Scheme Mike!
I must remember that one for the future.
Bob
I must remember that one for the future.
Bob
Nice Mike.
You'll be squaring off those chamfers I trust...
You'll be squaring off those chamfers I trust...
Mike G
Petrified Pine
The chamfers will be cleaned up tomorrow with a chisel. They won't have a fancy stop, but they'll have a flat 45 degree stop. It won't look like they were routed by the time I've finished.
StevieB
Nordic Pine
:eusa-clap: Oh I like that Sir - nicely done. I also understand now why the oak faced ply is in the middle of the door, I think I was being a bit dim before this point!
Coley
Sapling
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- Jul 26, 2014
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I completely agree Stu. Regarding a router 'simply isn't as accurate' I've never heard such nonsense in my life ! - seriously I haven't. A much better response would have been 'I feel more comfortable doing it this way'stu":1tlrg6r7 said:
From looking at the way he uses the router I'd just say he hasn't got the confidence with it- absolutely nothing wrong with that at all, just seems a bit odd he'd blame the router for not be accurate enough, just to justify his method [emoji6]
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Coley":1viun2tg said:
Let's keep this from getting personal please...
Rod
Old Oak
Have you got some of those airbags to help lift it into position?
Rod
Rod
Mike G
Petrified Pine
No, but I've got a box full of wedges, and a spacer which is exactly the height I need to clear the threshold strip. Because I made this from a template, and the template sat on the spacer, the door should just sit on the spacer and be in the right place. We'll find out tomorrow!
Mike G
Petrified Pine
The first job the following day was to clean up all of the routed chamfers. This was three and a half hours with a 1" chisel......sharpened twice. There is lots of delicate paring, and some scraping, and it changed the chamfers from this:
.......to this:
I put a couple of locating pins into the main frame of the door, sticking up into the "portcullis" frame so as to locate it in exactly the right place:
This was to enable me to apply the first coat of ()water-based) lacquer, and then remove the frame. My thinking here was that the glue-up was going to be very long and complex, and I couldn't afford to under-glue as there is no mechanical fixing at all holding the "portcullis" face onto the door. Therefore there would be squeeze-out, and without pre-finishing like this, cleaning up would be a pig of a job:
Then, a change of venue. I took everything in to the house, and set up in the porch. For those just coming to this for the first time this is because a 3 inch oak door would be a nightmare to try to move from the workshop to the house. I did the boarded side first, because they are fixed with screws through the door from the other side. The outer boards are glued and screwed to their outer edge, so that there is a solid edge to the door. The inner 2 boards are glued and screwed in the middle, and there are movement gaps of 7 to 9mm between each of the boards:
The last photo shows the cover strip drilled for later plugging, and about to be screwed over the gap between two boards. There is a big hole where the screw passes through the board, again, to allow for movement. This is on the outer (unstable) side of the door, so no chances with movement even though it is inside the enclosed porch.
Then, (following day) deep breath............another curse that I only have a 10 minute glue available.......flip the door over, and begin a glue-up against the clock:
You can imagine why there were no photos during the process. The clean-up of squeeze out took ages, with lots of changes of (warm) water, taking the cauls (is that the right word?) off in sequence to give access all around the panels, and finally a bit of careful scraping as the glue got slightly ahead of me. It's the worst clean up I can remember, with miles of edges to deal with. Worse than a bookcase.
I then toddled off to buy some hinges and handles whilst the glue dried, then spent the afternoon sorting everything out and hanging the door. The shavings on the floor are from angling the leading edge, which the trimming cutter obviously left square. I had to offer it up twice and adjust, but it was so, so close to right first time. The door is so thick that it stood up easily on edge, unsupported:
Finally, in place:
I can't tell you how pleased I am with this. It's the very best bit of the whole 4 year project in my view. I love it!
.......to this:
I put a couple of locating pins into the main frame of the door, sticking up into the "portcullis" frame so as to locate it in exactly the right place:
This was to enable me to apply the first coat of ()water-based) lacquer, and then remove the frame. My thinking here was that the glue-up was going to be very long and complex, and I couldn't afford to under-glue as there is no mechanical fixing at all holding the "portcullis" face onto the door. Therefore there would be squeeze-out, and without pre-finishing like this, cleaning up would be a pig of a job:
Then, a change of venue. I took everything in to the house, and set up in the porch. For those just coming to this for the first time this is because a 3 inch oak door would be a nightmare to try to move from the workshop to the house. I did the boarded side first, because they are fixed with screws through the door from the other side. The outer boards are glued and screwed to their outer edge, so that there is a solid edge to the door. The inner 2 boards are glued and screwed in the middle, and there are movement gaps of 7 to 9mm between each of the boards:
The last photo shows the cover strip drilled for later plugging, and about to be screwed over the gap between two boards. There is a big hole where the screw passes through the board, again, to allow for movement. This is on the outer (unstable) side of the door, so no chances with movement even though it is inside the enclosed porch.
Then, (following day) deep breath............another curse that I only have a 10 minute glue available.......flip the door over, and begin a glue-up against the clock:
You can imagine why there were no photos during the process. The clean-up of squeeze out took ages, with lots of changes of (warm) water, taking the cauls (is that the right word?) off in sequence to give access all around the panels, and finally a bit of careful scraping as the glue got slightly ahead of me. It's the worst clean up I can remember, with miles of edges to deal with. Worse than a bookcase.
I then toddled off to buy some hinges and handles whilst the glue dried, then spent the afternoon sorting everything out and hanging the door. The shavings on the floor are from angling the leading edge, which the trimming cutter obviously left square. I had to offer it up twice and adjust, but it was so, so close to right first time. The door is so thick that it stood up easily on edge, unsupported:
Finally, in place:
I can't tell you how pleased I am with this. It's the very best bit of the whole 4 year project in my view. I love it!
StevieB
Nordic Pine
That looks awesome Mike - I can totally understand why you are chuffed to bits with it. Oak panelling with chamfers in the hall to match?!
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Thanks Malcolm, Steve.
I love oak paneling. My wife, despite loving this door, doesn't like paneling, which is such a shame. I'd do the study in floor to ceiling paneling given the chance.
I love oak paneling. My wife, despite loving this door, doesn't like paneling, which is such a shame. I'd do the study in floor to ceiling paneling given the chance.
Rod
Old Oak
I was envisaging strap hinges and a lot more metalwork to hold that door up. Nice job but I can see daylight coming under it [emoji3].
I love oak panelling especially if it’s pale, it can become a bit oppressive if it’s dark, Jacobean style except in a Stately Home of course.
Rod
I love oak panelling especially if it’s pale, it can become a bit oppressive if it’s dark, Jacobean style except in a Stately Home of course.
Rod
fiveeyes
Sapling
Beautiful Mike, the chamfer really does set that apart. Makes the door pop.
bill
bill
That's a real tour-de-force Mike and I'll be re-reading it in depth as there's so many good ideas there to pinch!
The end result is quite superb and really appeals although I'm not too sure about the hinges.
From a practical standpoint, why didn't you simply buy some different glue ? Or doesn't the postman get out as far as you? :lol:
The end result is quite superb and really appeals although I'm not too sure about the hinges.
From a practical standpoint, why didn't you simply buy some different glue ? Or doesn't the postman get out as far as you? :lol:
Mike G
Petrified Pine
Rod":1vr89d7d said:
Tee or strap hinges work best on boarded door, and wouldn't have fitted (physically) on this one. The threshold strip goes in today, and I'll be doing the stops (with their seals) today as well.
Me too.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
fiveeyes":1qn4qbzz said:
Thanks Bill. They're time consuming, but chamfers are really, really important in traditional joinery and furniture design. The difference between the frame before and after chamfers was like chalk and cheese.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
RogerS":3ikc32p3 said:
Thanks Roger, much appreciated. I've looked forward to building this door for over a year now, and I'm really excited by it. My favourite thing in the house.
I simply don't get through enough glue to have more than one bottle on the go at a time, and this stuff is useful around a building site. It is heart-attack material around a big glue-up, though.......
Norty Raskel
New Shoots
Mike,
Great looking door and interesting construction, do you envisage any questions from the building inspector re heat loss calculations?
I would like to tackle the windows and doors on the orangery, but I'm expecting (rightly or wrongly) the inspector to ask for heat loss calcs. I'm going to discuss it with him next time he's here.
Jon
Great looking door and interesting construction, do you envisage any questions from the building inspector re heat loss calculations?
I would like to tackle the windows and doors on the orangery, but I'm expecting (rightly or wrongly) the inspector to ask for heat loss calcs. I'm going to discuss it with him next time he's here.
Jon
Mike G
Petrified Pine
No, I don't anticipate problems, Jon. I'll simply tell him there is 25mm of Celotex in the middle of the door, and show him the pictures if he wants. I think the requirement is for 20mm. In the unlikely event of him needing calcs, I have someone who will be able to do that for me.
If your orangery is unheated and an external quality door remains between it and the house, then you won't need any heat loss calcs. Remember, you only have to be compliant with the regs at the time of the inspection
If your orangery is unheated and an external quality door remains between it and the house, then you won't need any heat loss calcs. Remember, you only have to be compliant with the regs at the time of the inspection
Pinch
Old Oak
Interesting construction Mike. Looks beautiful chap! :eusa-clap:
:text-coolphotos: :text-bravo:
:text-coolphotos: :text-bravo:
Mike G":wsh3tpi2 said:
Lovely door up to the standards we have come to expect with the whole of this project.
I hate to pass comment but those hinges, the dark black colour not the style seem overpowering. Some aged wrought iron may have been my preference.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
I have a collection of handmade nails, and I dug out a bag or 2" ones:
Which I then cut down to 1":
I hammered these into the holes I'd drilled previously in the door:
The missing ones are because I have some bolts to fit, and I wanted to leave myself options. Anyway, you'll have worked out that the nails are decorative only.
I then drew out the template for the carving of the spandrels over the internal door:
before removing everything that wasn't needed. I can't say I am a natural carver, and I've never used carving chisels before (thanks Dave ), but the result seems OKish to me:
I'll get a better in situ photo tomorrow when the light is OK:
Which I then cut down to 1":
I hammered these into the holes I'd drilled previously in the door:
The missing ones are because I have some bolts to fit, and I wanted to leave myself options. Anyway, you'll have worked out that the nails are decorative only.
I then drew out the template for the carving of the spandrels over the internal door:
before removing everything that wasn't needed. I can't say I am a natural carver, and I've never used carving chisels before (thanks Dave
), but the result seems OKish to me:I'll get a better in situ photo tomorrow when the light is OK:
Rod
Old Oak
Nice and you got your priorities right [emoji3]
Rod
Rod
fiveeyes
Sapling
It's on my 'bucket list' now. If I ever, have the opportunity to travel the world, then this home will be a top priority. Will need a lottery win, tho.
Mike G
Petrified Pine
It's a pleasure Dan.
I carved the other spandrel today:
I then faffed around with the door stops for quite a long time, and finally got them fitted with their seals:
The groove on the back is for that expanding foam seal stuff I used previously, which will draft seal the planted on door stops.
You can see in this next photo (just) that the door stops extend past the face of the spandrels, and with a little cover strip at the top, form a frame around the carving:
I carved the other spandrel today:
I then faffed around with the door stops for quite a long time, and finally got them fitted with their seals:
The groove on the back is for that expanding foam seal stuff I used previously, which will draft seal the planted on door stops.
You can see in this next photo (just) that the door stops extend past the face of the spandrels, and with a little cover strip at the top, form a frame around the carving: