Polishing Mops....

[Dan0741]

Hi all,

I have a woodturning conundrum that I have been trying to work through for some time and I seem to be making really hard work of it and wondered if anyone else has any better ideas.

I have seen several versions of a polishing mop tree I think its called - (3 mops on one spindle) that turners fit between centres and use to polish wood.

Thinking I could make a better version than the ones on show at all the turning supplies places I have bought components that I can use to fashion a tree.

Here are the images...



Every bit of making this has been hard work and it doesn't operate effectively anyway.

The spindle is 3/4 inch threaded rod which is about the biggest I think I can sensibly use.

I have welded a hex nut on one end for the chuck to hold onto - the other is a joining nut that I thought would centre well on the live centre at the other end.

The issues are that as soon as the spindle is spinning, centrifugal force starts to pull it out of true, vibration starts and then it eventually comes loose and in any case is of no use to polish wood.

The spindle is only 730mm long and is very sturdy.

All the elements of the set up are tight and centred on the spindle to reduce the effects of centrifugal force.

Any one able to save me another weekend of trying to make this work with suitable suggestions?

Cheers,

Dan

 

[CHJ]

Having spent some considerable time researching and testing various polishing mops for use on wood turnings
I would say you are trying to over engineer your system.

A few observations:-
1. The bulk of wood turning projects are more effectively polished with individual mops rather than a mop tree. (you can't polish inside a hollow item such as bowl or pot. with a tree)

2. A mop tree is more useful as far as time is concerned if you only ever produce such as pens, small items and spindles such as handles especially if you are doing batch production, and in this case the mops do not need to be so distantly spaced.

3. Can't tell for sure from your image but I guess you are aware that mop fabric needs to be matched in stiffness to the abrasive grade and finishing polish used.

 

[Dan0741]

Ok, understood. Thank you. So are you suggesting a slightly different approach with individual Mops mountable on a mandrel held in the chuck or similar (I do mostly larger items). I have three different mop grades with their different respective polish blocks but haven't used them yet for obvious reasons!

 

[CHJ]

Ok, understood. Thank you. So are you suggesting a slightly different approach with individual Mops mountable on a mandrel held in the chuck or similar (I do mostly larger items). I have three different mop grades with their different respective polish blocks but haven't used them yet for obvious reasons!

98% of my output is polished with individual mops, I do have a Tree but rarely do enough small items in a continuous sequence to give it much use.

There are valid reasons why the Buffing mop systems marketed by the likes of Chestnut Finishes are engineered the way they are, ease and speed of mounting without having to change chucks and quickly swap mops can greatly assist in making the polish process a satisfying experience rather than a chore to set up.

 

[Mr P]

I think that your problem looks like that the shaft is too long, try shortening the shaft and moving the mops closer together and maybe try thinner mops. If memory serves, the Chestnut buffing tree shaft is approx. 12 inches long.

 

[Pete Maddex]

You need a steady or two for the shaft to run in, that would stop the shaft flexing.

Pete

 

[Dan0741]

Thanks all - I'm planning to build a steady for other creations so might use that - but in the meantime I've ordered a mandrel for 30 quid from Axminister. Simplicity as ever is the answer....thanks again.

 

[CHJ]

Thanks all - I'm planning to build a steady for other creations so might use that - but in the meantime I've ordered a mandrel for 30 quid from Axminister. Simplicity as ever is the answer....thanks again.

Make sure you heed the Axminster warning:-
"A small hollow recess is provided at the tip so that the tailstock can be brought up to keep the arbor securely in place."

Ignore and you risk the arbor coming loose from headstock as it has no Draw Bar safety facility.
eight times out of ten it would probably just drop out, but there is always a risk of taper peripheral drive spinning it at speed before it ejects in a forceful arc.

 

[Cabinetman]

Thanks Chas, I have one ready to use on a long term project, will definitely bear that in mind!

 

[CHJ]

Thanks Chas, I have one ready to use on a long term project, will definitely bear that in mind!

Some say they have never had it happen, but the thought of worst case scenario of a Morse taper letting go with someone who is not wearing high impact face protection is the stuff of nightmares.

One aspect that I worried about when thinking of a chuck mounted system for mop mounting via standard screw thread retention was someone putting a lathe in reverse and a mop flying free as it unscrewed.

To my surprise during testing even at reasonably high revs the mops just loose inertia as they unwind and drop onto the lathe bed with minimum residual inertia, came as a pleasant surprise.

 

[Dan0741]

Good advice - much appreciated Chas, thank you.

Dan