Veneering on MDF

[justaskin]

In the past when applying veneer to plywood I have always balanced the other side with a layer of an other veneer to equal the stresses out irregardless of the thickness. Do the same rules apply if using say 10mm MDF?

Grateful for any advice on past experience.

Richard

 

[Malc2098]

I used to do it years ago with formica on chipboard, the patterned one on the face and a blank one on the back.

I think the principle is sound, so I would do it for mdf and veneer.

 

[justaskin]

Many thanks Malcolm, I was anticipating using some gash formica on the rear face.

Richard

 

[Malc2098]

I've no experience of mixing the face coverings, I wonder if others might be able to comment on the opposing forces of veneer one side and a laminate on the other?

 

[RogerM]

About 30 years ago, for an instant cheap fix, I added a laminate to one side of several kitchen cabinet MFC doors using a well known contact adhesive, and every one of them bowed! Laminate side was concave.

 

[Woodbloke]

In the past when applying veneer to plywood I have always balanced the other side with a layer of an other veneer to equal the stresses out irregardless of the thickness. Do the same rules apply if using say 10mm MDF?

Grateful for any advice on past experience.

Richard

One of the golden rules of woodwork: 'Always do the same to both sides of a board' - Rob

 

[Jimmy Mack]

The general rule is to balance. This doesn't necessary need to be the same finish, but a similar material. It's not unusual to buy or have custom panels made up with mixed laminate faces, especially it the face is a more expensive finish, gloss, metallic, texture, fantasy finish, etc.

This rule is drummed into us from the school, though I have just veneered with constructional veneer (2.5mm) a curved desk top on to Birch ply to ONE SIDE ONLY I'm confident it'll be fine as the weight of the desk and the doubling up round the edges will keep everything nice and flat. I will be applying a finish to both sides, this is important for balancing also ( even if it's just a single coat to seal, it'll regulate the moisture equilibrium to match the face. I would never take this risk (one side veneer) with a free floating element such as a door for example.

some pics...

Cheers,

Jim

 

[Phil]

A company I did some work for years ago used to do veneering on PB and MDF.

The face would be best quality veneer and the backer second grade or a cheap veneer like Pine or Okume.

Single face just did not work on 9' x 6' smaller pieces would be ok.

 

[billybuntus]

How do you apply the veneer? just with contact adhesive?

Any preferred veneer supplier?

 

[Jimmy Mack]

How do you apply the veneer? just with contact adhesive?

Any preferred veneer supplier?

I use UF glue (cascamite style)...Alansons UF is brilliant, as are they!

Alansons comes as a two part resin and power hardener PLUS if required, an extender (thickener to reduce squeeze through...eg. Burr veneers ). Cold pressed in a vac bag. Workable after about 1.5 hrs (depending on the temp).

Veneer supplier's, either Capital Crispin...who have a nice website or Nantwich Veneers.

Jim

 

[RogerM]

Thanks Jim. What do you use to spread the cascamite evenly?

 

[Woodbloke]

Thanks Jim. What do you use to spread the cascamite evenly?

I use Cascamite as well and use a small foam roller (the type of thing for painting behind radiators, I usually buy a pack of six refills for about £1.50) which I then bin after the gluing session. Gives a thin layer of glue and is really quick to apply - Rob

 

[RogerM]

Sound cheap and effective. Just the ticket! Thanks Rob.

 

[TrimTheKing]

Good tips chaps, thanks.

:eusa-clap:

Mark