• Hi all and welcome to TheWoodHaven2 brought into the 21st Century, kicking and screaming! We all have Alasdair to thank for the vast bulk of the heavy lifting to get us here, no more so than me because he's taken away a huge burden of responsibility from my shoulders and brought us to this new shiny home, with all your previous content (hopefully) still intact! Please peruse and feed back. There is still plenty to do, like changing the colour scheme, adding the banner graphic, tweaking the odd setting here and there so I have added a new thread in the 'Technical Issues, Bugs and Feature Requests' forum for you to add any issues you find, any missing settings or just anything you'd like to see added/removed from the feature set that Xenforo offers. We will get to everything over the coming weeks so please be patient, but add anything at all to the thread I mention above and we promise to get to them over the next few days/weeks/months. In the meantime, please enjoy!

Whatsits in the woodpile

Bad luck Aidan. That's a real disappointment.

For the future, woodworm don't tolerate warmth, so either a/ centrally heat your woodstore, or...........b/ move your woodstore into the house. Neither may be a way of gaining an awful lot of popularity at home ;)
 
Aidan, perhaps giving everything else a dose of this may help ?http://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/woodworm_killer.jsp

Not sure if this is recommended within the turning fraternity but perhaps all blanks should be dosed before storage?
 
I read somewhere that freezing the wood (if you can get it in the freezer?) will off the blighters?
Never tried it though.
Whenever I bought some wood in I'd give it a coat of clear Cuprinol Woodworm Killer - I must have a search to see if it worked?

Rod
 
Years ago (1970's) I used to work in Kew Gardens as a plant taxonomist and one of the tasks all of the junior scientists had to do was to fumigate the incoming pressed plant specimens to ensure there were no insect infestations. At first we had to use a dedicated gas chamber away from the main buildings - the gas used was nasty and we had to wear gas masks and use a special hand held burner that changed flame colour if there was any leakage. All in all an unpleasnat and potenetially dangerous/lethal task.

They looked into alternatives and after some research changed to commercial deep freezers where the specimens were left for at least two days - this ensured that all the herbarium beetles were killed and worked without a problem. So I'm sure it would work fine with wood beetles - you just need a large freezer with a decent amount of space for large items of timber or furniture.

Misterfish
 
Looks like freezing is the best option. Which is handy. Here's the plan: convince the missus that it would be a great idea to have a chest freezer in the garage to put all those bargains from Waitrose/Sainsburys/Iceland etc, and then accidently on purpose put some of your wood in it. :roll: Sorted! :D

And when it comes to chest freezers, the longer the better!
http://www.fridgefreezerdirect.co.uk/co ... AryO8P8HAQ

Cheers
fred
 
Maybe I'm a bit more accustomed to woodworm, but I would not let a few holes put me off. Treat the timber, select where possible to minimise the damaged areas and fill any conspicuous holes with a little sawdust mixed with glue (spot of glue in the hole then sand the surface - works wonders).

I remember surveyors and building societies in the UK being a bit paranoid about woodworm. Here in France it's endemic, every house has some. We do worry a bit about termites, but woodworm is just part of life's rich pattern.
 
Mike G":e42uwip1 said:
Bad luck Aidan. That's a real disappointment.

For the future, woodworm don't tolerate warmth, so either a/ centrally heat your woodstore, or...........b/ move your woodstore into the house. Neither may be a way of gaining an awful lot of popularity at home ;)
Click to expand...

I'm no expert, but I thought it was the opposite, ie freezing the beggars kills them. What degree of warmth does it take to kill 'em off ?
 
chataigner":mrj9ds57 said:
What degree of warmth does it take to kill 'em off ?
Click to expand...
The warmth from the heart of a loving and caring man like yourself David. Love thy wood, and the wood loveth thee.

But seriously, taken from http://www.historyonics.com/woodborers.htm (the link I posted above that you couldn't be bothered to read :roll: )...


Treatments

Treatment against woodborer infestations are of many types, including:

- Fumigation with toxic gases such as phosphine and carbon dioxide. Fumigation is effective as the gas penetrates deeply into wood etc., killing all stages of the insect. It is useful when large quantities of material need to be treated quickly. However, fumigants are toxic and may react chemically with the objects being treated. They also do not provide any residual protection against the objects being reinfested.

- Anoxic fumigation provides very low oxygen environments, either with inert gases such as nitrogen or with oxygen absorbers such as AgelessTM. When suitably carried out, it can be a safe and effective method of killing insects by asphyxiation and desiccation. It does, however, need long treatment times of several weeks and is not very effective against woodborers.

- Temperature manipulation using high and low temperatures will kill insects. Temperatures above 52oC will kill all stages – eggs, larvae, pupae and adults in a few hours. This is the basis of the Thermolignum system. Temperatures of -30oC will kill all stages in 2-3 days, however at -18oC, the temperature of a domestic deep freezer, up to 2 weeks is necessary. Although generally safe on most materials, low temperature treatments can damage by embrittlement and shrinkage of, for instance, thick paint films.

- Insecticides consisting of an active ingredient in a solvent system are effective and give residual protection. Care must be taken in the choice of insecticide. In some instances an organic solution base may be preferable to a water solvent base.

- Constrain is a water-based insecticide that is very effective against woodborers and other insect pests as it penetrates deeply into the wood. It is colourless and odourless and is a very safe material recommended for domestic use.


Conditions encouraging attack are:

- warm temperatures above 10oC are necessary for the larvae to develop. Temperatures above 20oC encourage the adult beetles to fly and spread an infestation.

- high relative humidities above about 65% induce high moisture contents in wood (above about 15%) necessary for Anobium development. Deathwatch beetle development need even higher moisture contents.

- poor environmental conditions can cause splits, cracks and opening joints etc., that give good egg laying sites.

- poor housekeeping and lack of cleanliness can encourage Anobium development.


Cheers
fred
 
On a not totally unrelated note we place all our newly brought flour in the freezer for 48 hours prior to storing in the cupboard. Kills off any weevil eggs that are present in just about all flour. Weevil eggs will hatch weeks after laying - not a problem for regular bakers but for us that are only allowed one cake a month* (I kid you not) weevil infestation can be a problem.



*Don't worry Bob exceptions are made for visitors.
 
Yes Aidan, although probably more accurately described as Flour Mites. Adults less than 0.5mm long and the eggs which can often remain in the flour are impossible to see. In fact it is only when you see a speck a crumb or grain of pepper move in the cupboard that you notice them.
 
A few yrs back we opened up a bag flour which was alive!

My wife now keeps all flour in zipped closure plastic bags and has a look for movement before using any.

Rod
 
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